Cycle News - Archive Issues - 1970's

Cycle News 1970 10 27

Cycle News is a weekly magazine that covers all aspects of motorcycling including Supercross, Motocross and MotoGP as well as new motorcycles

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o " '" 8? o .... '" .... N u o ~ Thellolne . Workshop W Z W ...J U > U Many riders are. lucky enough to go for the complete length of time that they own their machine without baving to go into the dutch assemhly. Others are destined to have to go into it and mostly they will blame the machine for 1) Start by backing off the brake adjusting nut so the brake pedal will drop down to clear the chaincase. Nut should be left on rod so the brake pedal is held in place. a slipping dutch. If a dutch is treated right and taken care of, there is no reason that it should not last the life of the machine. On Street machines, the most common abuse of the dutch is sitting at a red light waiting for the light to 2) In this position, the brake pedal is no bother at all. While- you're at it, tie brake light switch in 'off' position or rem ove tail light bulb to avoid dischargi':lg the battery. 6) Small pip on clutch nut is to keep it 5) Make note of length of protruding from backing off. If it was sheared off studs before removing clutch nuts and by the spring end when you removed it, replace the same way. Back off nuts in - replace with a new one, or slavage as in criss-cross fashion 'one turn at a time' to photo seven. avoid warping the outer pressure place. By Rod Breaker change and having the machine in gear. Although the pressure is taken off the plates, they are still spinning and bumping into each other and this will cause premature wear. If you have trouble getting your machine into neutral, you will fmd jt a lot easier if you will pop it into neutral just before the bike.stops moving instead of waiting until you have come to a complete halt. This particular dutch job is on a 650cc A65 BSA twin, but the procedure to b-e followed is basically the same for just about any English machine. 3) Left-hand footpeg is on a tapered shaft and the nut is a left-hand thread. After undoing nut, rap the footpeg with a mallet to knock it off the taper, then remove it. 4) As noted by arrows, cover screws serve as oil level plug and drain plug. Although exhaust pipe removal isn't absolutely necessary it does make draining the oil neater and removing the coiler much easier. 7) If you clamp the nut in a vise and tap it wtih a punch, the pip may be renewed well enough to work -again. But, replacement is always best and not all that expensive. 8) After removing pressure plate, the driven and driving plates may be taken off with a pair of magnets or fished out with two wires formed into a hook on· the ends as shown. 9) Clean drive (steel) plates and check on flat surface for signs of warpage. Break surface glaze by roughing up both sides with No. 100 grit sandpaper in circular motion. 10) A set of BT&E clutch plates were installed. Put driving and driven plates back into clutch hub alternately starting with a lined plate. BT&E clutch sets are easily obtained. The fast Suzukis and the fast Kawasakis use ... " 11) After refitting nuts. check for even adjustment by pulling in the clutch lever and either depressing the kickstarter or engaging top gear and rotating rear wheel. Adjust nuts to eliminate any wobbles of clutch plate. • "-Riders &.~ Racers. . our machine shop can :tyOU~ It makes Yamahas go better tool 12) Adjust clutch by backing off lock nut and screwi ng in the ad juster stud until tension is felt against the clutch pushrod; then back off 'I:z·turn and lock down nut. Make any further adjustment at the handlebar lever. HUSQVARNA Distributed by HELI·ARC WELDING IN ALUMINUM & STEEL n~Ald ~aJd" '7"""1 power booster really works (;)Jill ~ll~e ( . SPORT CYCLES . ~ , 257 S. LA BREA at centu~ INGLEWOOD, CALIFORNIA • 671-Q406 678-5035. Mecl-lnternational 4190 Palm Ave., La Mes~, Calif. 92103 3/B"DriYe '.paC' Wrenc' see at T&0 Yamaha, lO\llita 01"••• $4.95 check plus $1.00 tax & postage KOZAK Engineering 20021 So, Earlie Ave. Carson, Calif. 90220

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