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MotoAdventures Peru Trail Ride healthy dose of respect for the consequences of launching into the abyss, we treaded carefully, trying to recall One of the other extrllordinary places we rode was on the beach after the last day's lunch. Since there aren't many places to do that in the U.S., being able to romp freely on a dirt bike next to the surf makes you feel like you're getting away with something illegal, but it's condoned in Peru. That, of course, constitutes much of the appeal of taking a MotoAdventures tour in Peru: You have the freedom to ride in areas that might be off-limits in more structured, less dirt bike-tolerant societies such as the U.S. The terrllin is completely different from that found in the Costa Rican version of the tour, but it still makes for a ride you'll never forget. While there aren't many two-track rollds for novice-level riders, there are some, and there's enough variety in trails to keep anyone entertained. Just don't expect a lot of jungles or slick clay, because it's not Costa Rica. Of course, for those who can't decide where to go and who have both the time and money, MotoAdventures offers the Moto-Elite program with its Moto Grand Slam: a week in each placeI Doing so also qualifies you for a 10-percent discount, as well as entry into a contest only for Moto-Elite riders, an annual drawing with the prize being a 50-percent discount on a future tour. Sign us up! By the way, MotoAdventures cannot and does not take its guests to Macchu Pichu via XRs. Only certain tour operators are permitted up there, and no motor vehicles are allowed, anyway. However, should you wish to go - and everyone we talked to who's been there said we should have - MotoAdventures can arrange for you to hook up with one of the Macchu Pichu-certified tours; it takes a minimum of two days. lessons of precise wheel placement learned in observed trials. EI Mayoral de Aspitia Hotel in the village of Aspitia is another charming overnight stop. Located in the agricultural Mala Valley, it's a wonderful, off-the-beaten-path place seemingly hidden from most tourist itineraries, yet it has a pleasant restaurant, a pool, and plenty of peace and quiet. As with MotoAdventures' Costa Rican rides, normal bike maintenance is the job of a hired mechanic; guests need concern themselves solely with sampling the amenities of the facility each night. (Of course, if you feel something needs attention, you should point it out and not force the POSH IN PERU we went. We passed by a few remote sandy, they didn't feature the tall mechanic to play mind-reader.) chicken farms in the desert before In Lima, the Hotel £, Casino Boule- dunes of The Tube area, and it Sadly, we had time to venture only reaching more fertile farmland, took a vard offers excellent accommoda- seemed a bit warmer and drier, onto the beginning of a trail that leads up into the heart of the Andes. wrong tum into (and quickly out of) a tions, something we've come to though it was even closer to the closely guarded munitions or explo- expect with MotoAdventures tours. Pacific. sives factory, then hit a few miles of The hotel is located in a busy area of Both days included some very pavement before sitting down at a the city called Miraflores, surrounded rocky and technical single-track, workout. We didn't have enough time pleasant roadside cafe in the town of by a variety of restaurants and shops; either on the tops of ridges or the to get up to places where the dry Huaral. After the late meal, we head- the airport is across town. sides of hills - always with huge drops desert gives way to lush vegetation. ed back to the trucks in a quick- We spent the next two days exploring areaS south of Lima. While paced ride over mostly different trails. (Left) As Mike Healey and others In our group discovered, Inca Kola has an almost bubblegumlevel sweetness. According to native Peruvians Larry Larrabure and Billy Heldt, the national soft drink outsells Coke. (Below) The Hotel & Casino Boulevard In the Mlraflores section of Uma Is urban upscale and the primary base of residence during the tour. 22 JANUARY 17. 2001 • cue I e ne""5 It proved to be a real test, with first gear not the only thing getting a real awaiting those who made a mistake. Next time (and we certainly hope With a fear of heights triggering a there is one), that will be our goal. l:1li PRICE: $2395 INCLUDES: 2001 Honda XR650R rental for five days Ali fuel, oil, normal maintenance Lodging for six nights (Sunday through Friday) Ali mellis for five days (Monday through Friday; alcoholic beverages not included) NOT INCLUDED: Airfare to Uma, Peru Medical insurance Motorcycle damage insurance ($100 nonrefundable all-inclusive or $600 refundable deposit, which caps your financial responsibility at $600, with lesser amounts of damage deducted from deposit) Meals on days of arrival and departure (Sunday and Saturday) Souvenirs BRING: Ali normal riding gear (including high-capacity drink system and light jacket) Camera and film Fannypack or backpack for carrying camera and film Normal personal effects and supplies you'd take on a one-week trip CONTACT: MotoAdventures 9715 Johnnycake Ridge Rd. Concord, OH 44060 440/392-0926 (phone), 440/354-4911 (fax) dbowersOmotoadventuring.com (e-mail) www.motoadventuring.com