Cycle News - Archive Issues - 1980's

C\I l-< Q,) ..c S Q,) ;> o Z The K100 RS before Mt. Crystalus, north of Cortina dom Pezzo, Italy. our U.S. documents was usually enough for the border guards to wave us through. LeravingCaprile, we wound south on more thrilling red roads, crazy fine squiggles between more main roads. Somewhere near Fiera de Premiero we rounded a turn to find the ruins of a castle on a high rock outcropping, looking desolate from a thousand years of use. South of Fiera the road wound above a river, through dozens of damp-smelling tunnels, till we emerged from the last one, blinking in the light, and descended to the broad plain that makes up all the rest ofItaly, heading for Feltreand Venice. When the land changed our mood changed. From the wild and easy and comfortable mountains we entered the humid heat and mad dashings of the polluted plains. Soon we seemed to hop from city to city, with each one becoming hotler, more humid, more hectic. would not try to engage a group of riders in conversation. And if you find yourself in a locale you'd like to spend some time in, well usually the tour moves on the next morning and your time is limited. And of course, you're somewhat obligated to the tour's route. If you've always wanted to see Yugoslavia, but your tour doesn't go there, well, wait till the next trip. The subject here is the next trip. If you've been on an organized tour of Europe, or if you just really want to do Europe on your own, here are some suggestions and observations. The easiest, and most expensive, means of having a new bike in Europe is to buy a BMW over there. You may contact your nearest BMW dealer for overseas delivery, or contact Bob Beach. Both can help you with details about getting the bike home. Too expensive? Low-mileage rental BMWs are available in limited numbers. Again contact BMW or Beach. Want to buy some other brand of bike in Europe to ship home' Contact your Moto Guzzi or other dealer for details on where to begin. But forget about buying a Japanese bike in Europe. Prices are about the same as over here, but American models are not available. You could buy a European specification machine over there, but would have big problems trying to license it here. Shipping your own machine to Europe is an inexpensive route, and I think the best. Some carriers, such as Air Canada, can pallet-ship your bike, which does not even require crating. It flies in the hold of the same plane you take, and can be on the road with you in Europe in a very short time. How to be a Millionaire in Italy Ever wanted, to be a millionaire and have your bedroom shown on "Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous"? Go to Italy. It's all part of the little currency game people can play in Europe. During our trip, June of 1984, the dollar was very strong and getting stronger in relation to the currencies of Europe. And the relative strength, or weakness, of the dollar will have a lot to do with what you will eat and where you will stay and what you will buy on your trip to Europe. Five years ago, in 1979, an American dollar would, buy about 850 Italian lira. When we crossed the border in June, we could buy 1650 lira for a dollar. To possess a million lira, all we would have had to do was exchange $606.06! And since our visit, the dollar has gotten stronger. The price of millionaire-ing in Italy is now well below $600. Ci~o! The Dolomites: Italy's Alps Hedroads inthe highAlps Border crossing in the rest of Europe are informal affairs compared with those of the DDR. We were seldom even asked for our passports, and when we were, the blue cover of Looking into East Berlin from Checkpoint Charley, the Berlin Wall comprises an ugly no-man's land. I Part 2, By Bill Stermer AJpenblasters and Red Roads In the Alps the KlOOs come alive, and we'll remember one particular loop fondly. It shows up as a red road on our map, and these are listed as smaller, scenic routes, The loop began at Corvara, a ski town bristling with restaurants and pensions (rooms). The road climbed from green hills up a series of switchbacks to rock, snow, and the cold breath of the high country. All the way around we were surrounded by mighty bare-rock mountains, rugged, gashed with fissures and washed with the filminess of waterfalls that disperse along sheer .rock faces and never reach the ground.. At the summit is a raw wind and rocks, some ski areas and the hotel, then it's 35 turns (they are numbered) back down the mountain to Arabba as the land changes back from bare, wet rock to mossy patches to full green with flowers. In Pieve the houses hang over the edge of a sheer drop into a valley, and down in Caprile it is summer-warm again, and Mount Civetti glows in the duskJike a dream. We take a room for 25,000 lira in Caprile, but it figures to only $15.25 with breakfast included. In the morn.' i{lu. ,hA. ~ • ham .. ."Y: • .."" ."If.:.. 'II': I..A.~ • bre~rt~•• 2~ with marmalade, butter and coffee. We four are the .only persons in the restaurant, and frequently we are the ,only guests for lunch, or overnight in the pensions. June is the ideal tune to see the Alps, but come before midMay and many places will not be open, and many mountain passes will still be choked with snow. By mid-July the horrendous rush begins and all of Germany goes to Italy for August. Avoid those months. On Your Own, or On a Tour? You can travel by motorcycle in Europe in twO basic fashions - with a tour or on your own. I was a member of one of Bob and Liz Beach's wonderful tours in 1979, and became a total believer in the joys of Europe by motorcycle. An organized tour has the advantages of providing other riders to enjoy your time with, and to provide help in times of need. A luggage van carries your bags so they don't load down your bike while flicking through hairpins. And it can carry your bike to a mechanic in case of a breakdown. But there is another side to organized tours. You tend to associate only with your group; the locals may ,,,,nnr~rh ,,~Jr 1~~A rOllnle'9[ i'¥1'''~.''_'' lWn , but. . .~';:::::"-T-~:-TT+':-.-n:-i'rt=l~...r-:~,=-+-----,-,r.+-'~ r ••."., • • •

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