Cycle News - Archive Issues - 1980's

lighting wires which are usually exposed on the rear fender, feed them through a length offuelline (see photo C). If you intend to compete in enduros, check with other riders in the vicinity to see if you will be req uired to have an operating brake light. If so, this is the . time to install switches and wiring needed to comply with the regulation. The owner's manual supplied with most bikes usually has a list of recommended torque values for most of the fasteners on the bike. As a general rule, you will find that the majority of your uses for a torque wrench may be confined to engine components. It is still a welcome tool on many other fasteners, including swingarm bolts, triple clamps and in areas where overti gh tening may be a problem. If you plan to purchase one, be sure it is calibrated in both standard and metric units. While you can convert to the required units, it's much easier to glance at the specified value and then apply the proper amount of torque. The cylinder head is probably the most common and most important place to use the torque wrench (see photo D). On most bikes, the exhaust pipe will have to be removed in order to reach all of the head bolts. While it is important to follow the recommended torque value closely, it is equally important to torque each of the bolts to exactly the same value to avoid warping the head. On certain models, there will be a set of studs which secure the cylinder also. Set all to the proper torque. The flywheel, whether it is the external or internal type, is also a prime candidate for a torque wrench. Remove the flywheel cover, taking care to leave the gasket intact if one is used. A flywheel holder (not to be confused with a flywheel puller) is a specialized tool designed to prevent the flywheel from rotating while being tightened or loosened. If you are unable to locate one, it would be best to leave well enough alone. However, with the holder in one hand and a torque wrench in the other, tightening the flywheel becomes a simple, yet important task. Wipe away any accumulated moisture from the cover, run a bead of silicone sealant around the mating surface and fasten the cover. If you have one, aT-handle allen head wrench or Phillips screwdriver will speed the process. Your entire ignition system should be bulletproof by this time. Whether your bike has been ridden or not, it's a good idea to drain the transmission or sump oil. With any amount of time on the motor, you will likely find the oil is littered with minute metal particles. Getting those particles out of your bike's bloodstream as soon as possible can be highly beneficial, especially when the internal parts are going through the break-in process. Before replacing the drain plug, you might want to gain a little peace of mind by drilling a hole through the head for a length of safety wire. Install the plug and tighten it, then thread the safety wire through the head and around the closest frame member, making sure that you are pulling in the proper direction to tigh ten the pI ug. Using a graduate or baby bottle, calibrated in metric units, measure out the specified amount of engine oil or transmission lubricant (check to see what is recommended for your bike) and feed.it into the motor. At this point, remove the top of the carburetor and pull the slide assembly out of the body. The carburetor should be easily removable, so loosen the hose clamps and pull it away from the bike. Force a shop rag into the intake manifold opening to keep out any foreign matter. The air box, our next matter of attention, should be readily accessible for servicing. Since the air filter may not have been A. Once your bike is cleaned. dried and stripped of the seat. tank and plastics. the detail work begins. B. Sealing the point where ignition wires enter the crankcase can prevent many future problems. C. Running your lighting wires through a length of fuel line results in a clean. tidy set-up. D. Learning how to properly use a torque wrench is one of off-road riding's basic maintenance skills. E. A few minutes spent taping the vicinity of the air box may well keep you going in the wet. F. Silicone sealant provides for a quick and easy method of banishing carburetor gremlins. coated with oil befare the bike was crated at the factory, pull it out and wash in solvent. After it dries thoroughly, pour on a layer of your favorite filter oil and wring out the excess. Set the completed assembly aside. All of the meticulous care that you give your air filter will be for naught if you allow dirt to pass into the air flow through the air box/carburetor boot junction. On many bikes there is a hose clamp on each end of the bootprobably the most fail-safe method. All you need do is pay attention to the tautness of the clamps. Others have the boot simply force-fit into the air box, with rivets or other fasteners to hold it in place. In this case, many tOP offroad riders run a bead of Shoo-Goo, a substance similar to silicone sealant, around the perimeter of the boot. Silicone can be used as a second choice. For an extra bit of waterproofing, especially in the case of enduro machinery, a few meters of duct tape applied to strategic areas in the air box will do wonders (see photo Ei. Try to envision all of the possible ways that water may try to enter the air box, then lay down the tape to force it to flow elsewhere. Your filter will stay cleaner a nd drier. Reinstall the filter after applying a layer of waterproof grease to the seating surface. After pulling the ragout of the intake manifold, maneuver the carburetor back into position, then insert the slide and tighten the carb tOp. Check the tightness of the fasteners holding the reed case to the cylinder if applicable. With your tube of silicone sealant in hand, apply a generous amount to the throttle cable/carburetor tOP junction (see photo F). While most bikes will have a rubber boot in this area, an extra bit of insurance may keep your bike running under inclement weather conditions. With the carburetor installed and buttoned down, check for the proper routing of the throttle cable and overflow hoses. Most bikes also have a crankcase breather hose, so check its routing. In cases where the hose is simply pushed into the crankcase filler cap, such as on earlier Husqvarnas, a dab of silicone sealant will keep it in place. Use zip ties as required for a secure mounting. On water-cooled machinery, check the radiator mounts and tighten all hose clamps on the plumbing. Top off the coolant level with the recommended fluid mixture. Don't assume that since your bike is factory-fresh that all components are ready for action-in many cases they are not. Finish off your meticulous attention in the engine area by checking all of the motor mounts. On many machines, they are notorious for loosening, and a few minutes spent here may well save your riding day. Since the torque readings on many of these fasteners may be quite high, the use of six-point (hexagon shape) sockets rather than the more common 12-poim variety may save you from rounding off the corners of the bolt heads in this area. At this point, take a well deserved break. Your job, dare we say it, is roughly half over. In our next installment, we will delve deeply into suspensions, wheels, brakes and miscellaneous other areas which will require attention before you are indeed ready to tackle the dirt. • 17

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