Cycle News is a weekly magazine that covers all aspects of motorcycling including Supercross, Motocross and MotoGP as well as new motorcycles
Issue link: https://magazine.cyclenews.com/i/125697
o .. 8Q. o .... en o By Rod Breaker ~ w Z W ...J (.) >(.) FIXING THAT %t+&*&% FLAT TIRE The rider who has never had to change a flat tire can indeed consider himself lucky. This is one of the most dreaded jobs in the motorcycle industry, yet if done properly, it can be a snap. Two problems loom up for the amateur trying to do it himself; first, he usually starts out on a rear wheel and sets it down so that he starts on the 1) Here is the culprit, the sight of which is sickenin'g to even the most seasoned rider, Whether it's on the front or the rear, you must first take away all cables, brake rods, brake anchor arms, etc. Then, remove the axle. If in doubt as to procedure, check your rider's handbook. If it is on the front, the machine must be blocked up so that the wheel is off the ground before removing. sprocket side. Twenty minutes and ten skinned fingers later he realizes he should have had the sprocket down where he wouldn't smash his knuckles against it every time the tire tool slipped. Second, when he is all done, he finds that it still will not hold air because somehow it mysteriously acquired some new holes in the mounting period. Unless you are using a very ragged·edged tire tool, it is not the tool itself that makes the hole, but a combination of the tire tool being levered against the rim in the last bit of mounting with the tube in between the two. If you will remember never to lever the tool beyond the straight-up position, you will practically eliminate this problem. Here is a step-by-step illustrated procedure for changing a tire. To make it easy on myself, I used the front wheel from our illustrous editor's trail 90 Honda, because, lets face it, lightweight tires are easier. But the system is the same for all bikes. o 2) The proper tire tools are important. Never use screwdrivers, they break the bead of the tire. Here are some of the more common tire tools. On the left, Harley-Davidson war surplus. Next is a typical tool that is included in the English tool kits. The next one is Italian, with a spoke hook on one end. On the right, one from a Yamaha tool kit which combines tire tool and wrench for saving space in the. tool box. Any burrs on the ends should be eased off with fine grain emery cloth. 5) While kneeling on the tire opposite the stem and holding the bead in the well, hook one lever under the tire and lever the bead over the rim at the stem. Have another tool to slip into the opening to obtain a better bite, or you will find the tire slipping off the edge of the tire tool. Or: 6) Hook this type of tool under the bead and clip it onto one of the spokes, it will hold the bead while the rest of the tire is levered off. If one of these cannot be purchased at your local motorcycle shop, a similar type is available in most bicycle stores. 3) Place a clean rag on the floor to keep from contaminating the wheel bearings and set the wheel down on it. Remove the valve cap, stem locking nut and the valve core. The valve core should always be removed to be positive that all the air is ab Ie to escape from the tube. The popular method of setting the wheel on an oil drum should be avoided as this makes the spokes take all of the abuse of the tire changing. 7) Working first on one side of the holding lever and then on the other, work the bead off the tire all the way around. When the bead on one side has been completely slipped over the rim, reach inside and remove the inner tube. Insert the valve stem, inflate the tube and check to see what caused the flat and where it is located. 4) Break down the bead all the way around the tire. 0 irectl y opposite of the valve stem, push the bead down into the well of the rim. This will allow the bead at the valve stem to be levered over the rim. If this is not done opposite the valve stem, the stem will keep the bead from falling into the well and make removal a difficult job. 8) If you are not sure what made the tire go flat, run a rag around the inside of the tire to see if it will snag anything. Do not use your bare hand, especially if you ride in the desert. A rattlesnake fang imbedded in the tire can cause a painful wound, if you should happen to • drag your bare hand across it. 11) Position one hand up inside of the tire with the stem inside and under your hand. This will allow you to guide it into the hole. With your hand jammed inside the tire, the stem will not go into the rim until. .. 9) After patching or replacing the tube, sprinkle it liberally with talcum powder. This will make it easy to fit into the tire and keep the tube from sticking to the tire. It will also help discourage the tire tool from bitin into it. 12) By levering up on the opposite side with a tire iron, you will be able to easily slip the stem into the hole. After removing your hand, thread the stem lock nut onto the stem about 1/3 of the way down to keep it from slipping out of the hole. . 10) Insert the tube into the tire all the way around except for the valve stem. Position the stem directly at the hole in the rim. Getting the stem down into the hole in the rim is where many riders encounter trouble, but there is an easy way to do it. ~ 13) Starting opposite the valve stem, lever the tire on as far as possible with your hands, keeping the bead down in the well with your weight of your knees. You should be able to lever on about 2/3 of the tire by hand. 17) Be ore installing the valve core, inflate the tire a couple of times to make sure there are no wrinkles in the tube and to check to see that the bead is popped out evenly all the way around the rim. If the bead is uneven with the rim, as in th is photo, deflate the tire and spray this section with silicone and it will pop right out when the tire is re,u,fjated. 14) This last section of tire is the moment of truth: This is where the tire is most apt to be pinched by the tire tool. To avoid this, spray the rim and the bead of the tire with a silicone - spray. This will make the rubber and the rim extra slick. 181, After installing the valve stem, fill with air, tighten down the locking nut and check the tire pressure. The tire pressure should conform to 'the manufacturers specifications as listed in yOUL I}andbopk. 15) Next spray the back side of the tool as well. When a tube is pinched, it is pinched' between the tire iron and the rim when the tire iron is pushed over center to make the bead drop onto the rim. By spraying with silicone, the tire will slip onto the rim when the tool is straight up and wi II not pinch the tube. 16) By working from side to side, finish at the stem. Just before the last sectiotl is levered on, push the stem up into the tire so the tube will not be caught between the tire and the rim when the last section drops onto the rim. 19) If you are working on the front wheel on a Japanese machine, care must be taken when installing the wheel. These pips on the speedo drive gear located in the brake hub, must engage DEALER WINS TRIP Riverside Kawasaki dealer Ken Conover has been given an alI-expense, lO-day paid trip for two to Tahiti from the Japanese factory for being one of the top dealers in the country. with slots in the wheel or the The award isn't new to the father of speedometer will not operate. Assemble three. Since taking over the C & H shop the wheel back onto the machine, hook in 1968, he has won trips to Acapulco up all the components, tighten the axle - and Japan. Last year, he was Kawasaki's ,and VQ!J're on.Your way. _ _ _ _ _...op dellkrju the United States. t ~