Cycle News - Archive Issues - 1960's

settlement, so better check your 0dometer at Ensenada and start looking for a turn off road 00 tbe right almost exactly 27 mUes from Ensendad. There used to be a big rock with a sign .. Ejido Ajusco" but all there Is now Is a make shift cattle guard which you should cross very carefully. HE~Look MeOver. .... .... .... Watch it Nowl Continuing onward, we pass tbe San Miguel v1llage, another American colony made up pr1nclpally at mobil e homes. They have a r estaurant and rent trailer and camping space as well as boats for fishing. Shortly, we pass the intersection at Mexico Hiway :1, which turns off to the Northeast to Tecate, about 65 miles away. It passes through the Interesting little farming community of Guadalupe which was colonized, around the turn at the century, by a group at white Russlans and where examples at ' Russian style architecture are still In evidence as are tow-headed children. ThIs Is another story" bowever, which will have to wait for another time. and naughty night spots, but why not pian on attending the Cycle News annual Ensenada run (to be announced) and discover this fascinating town for yourself? As our destination Is a little f1sh1ng village some 40 miles fur ther, we must leave Ensenada with just a taken glance, continuing southward on Av. Juarez, on pass the tra1flc clrcle\ with the statue of Benito Juarez In the center, then foll owing Av, Internaclonal on out of town~ A few miles down the road we sldrt the mllliary quartel and the Ensenada airport which is also the mllliary airport. Ahout 6 miles trom town we will pass tbe turn-off to Estero Beach, a resort trailer .., :; U you are not a better than average rider with some d1rI experience, It might be advisable to spend the night at the settlement and forget the next 18 miles of dirl road. Under no circumstances should It be tried rid1ng double. From here on that big bike that we all love so well on the broad ribbons of asphalt, Is strictly a hazard. Much of the road is .. wash board" and in other sections the ruts have been filled with Mexican gravel containing some stones as big as baseballs (but not round). U you're still with us, 3-1/2 miles oft tbe pavement, we can stop and examine the runis of the old Santo TomaS Mission. It was founded late In the 18th centry.At one time It supported about 1,000 Indians and huge berds of cattle and sh eep, but In tbe mid-19th century an epidemic wiped out the Indians and the mission was soon abandoned. Sllgbtly r ested, we press on. Shortly we come to a fork of which we take tbe right branch and continue on for 12 more mUes where we see a little store on the left side at the road. It-Is under a grove of trees and a windmill is pumping water out of the dry river bed and just a stone's throw beyond, we see the surf breaking on a sandy beach. The sign says "Plays, sto. Tomas" (Santo Tomas Beach) but the map calls the place .. La Boeana;" The store charges 15~ for cold drinks and collects $1.00 a night for camping, so unless you just can't face the last 3 mUes of d1rI road, press on northward. The next 3 miles are the hardest, as you will guess as you ascend an almost Impossible hill for about 100 feet. Automobiles have tried a couple at routes and there are ruts to follo w but both are' about equal. Our BMW made It, however. A Cliff-Hange r About a halt-mile south of the Meldco 3 Intersection, we ride througb El sausar, Bu1lt around one of the largest fish canneries In Mexico , It Is owned by the heirs at the late General Abelardo Rodriguez, former president of Meldco, who made his home here In a magn1tlcent Spanish colonial mansion which can be seen off to the left, surrounded by olive groves which supply the oil for the Ush cannery. We soon come to a fork In the road. Either r oad will lake you Into the city of Ensendada. The right road goes by way of the shipping area where acres at baled cotton may be seen awa,tl:lng shipment to Japan and other countries. We proceed 00 Into the center of town to Avenida Benito Juarez which we follow south across the bridge across the Arroyo (Dry Cr eek) Ensenada, On this street there ars several good gasollne slatloos where you may top off your lank. Watch carefully unless you enjoy gasol1oe all over your paint, The best grade of Meldcan gas sells tor 90 centavos per liter which figures out about21.5~per American gallon. They'll gladly accept U.S. currency but cannot always give you all your change In American money but don' t let it worry you because theirs serves better than ours trom here on. A lot can be written about Ensenada, with Its fine restaurants and luxurious -hotels, fabulous sporttishlng, swimming camp and motel. It boasts good surf fishIng and other water sports and is patronIzed principally by Americans. Get Your Permit . About '10 miles south of Ensenada, we stop at the immigratioo station at Mane&dero and get our tourist permits s ta mped. U you neglected to obtain ooe, you will be told that this Is as tar as you are permitted to penetrate the country. However, 1 have found that unless you are planning on going all the way down the peninsula, an engraving atGeorge WashIngton wrapped around your driver'S license will get you permis s ion to contin ue . W proceed slowly through the village e of Maneadero (about 1/2 mile) until we come to fork In the road. The right branch goes to Punta Banda where one can camp near the fam ous "Butadora" which Is probably the world's largest tidal blow bole. The pressure bu1lds up In an underground cave until SUddenly, with a roar llke a jet plane laking off, water spouts as high as a 20-story bu1lding. It is well worth a visit, but this time we're continuing south so we take the left branch and speed along the main highway through maintains and valleys until we arrive In the valley of Santo Tomas. Lush and green with grapevlneyards and other crops, there seems to be an abundance atwater and the farmers have an Ingenious system at Irriga tion ditches and pipes to supply" their fields with water. The Missioo Santo Tomas was builtby the Dominican Father s about 175 years ago . Vineyards were planted to furnis h altar wines. The wines produced here wer e of fine quality and became famous throughout the Republic and even today Santo Tomas wines are considered the finest In Mexico. The winery has long since been moved to Ensenada, however, and the or1g1nal vineyards are able to produce only part of the grapes needed for today's production. There Is a small settlement here with motel, restaurant and curio store called El Palomar. We are planning on leaving the main road a couple at miles this s ide of the Now we travel a deeply rutted shelf road along the cllfts abov e the ocean. I needn 't warn you to be carefulbere. Even walking this road gives you a thrill. Approaching the end of the trip you will see a beautiful wind-protected cove with a dozen or so boats on its smooth surface and on the bluff overlooking the sea is the fishing settlement of .. Puerto de Santo Tomas" (Port of St. Tgomas) . It Is a group of buildings , Including a store and restaurant and another halt-circleshaped building which has rooms for tourists. On the hill behind the store Is a wlndm1ll which generates electri city. U the wind dies at night, the lights go out . Senor Armador, the proprietor, wUi give you permission to camp wherever you like at no charge. He'll sell you bait for fishing and let you name your own price and be' ll point out the best spo ts to catch fish from the shore or he'll find someone to lake you out In a boat at a nominal charge. . After camp Is made you can catch a ' string of Ush for supper but no matter what you have to eaUt will taste delicious and atter the coals of the cam p fir e cease to glow you find that you will s le ep like a baby In sp its at thinking abo ut those 18 mUes of bad road before you ~t back to the pavement . Shell Thuet .. Guy Louis SHELL MO TORS . . .... ., . • ·....,Ibr. -

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